Dying Poplars in Western Utah
Sample Report 1
Prepared for Lyndsey Tremuloides, 647 East Main Street, Pudding Creek, Utah 84375
Investigated and Written by Jim Hubbell, Consulting Arborist
Working With Nature, 3136 South 2000 West, Logan, Utah 84321
Copyright 2016 by Jim Hubbell
Cover Letter
All identifying information has been changed to protect client confidentiality.
Lyndsey Tremuloides
647 East Main Street
Pudding Creek, Utah 84375
Dear Lyndsey Tremuloides
I have carefully inspected the photos you sent, as well as have thoughtfully considered all the answers you gave to the questions I asked. I have concluded the trees in your driveway, that are still alive, need some work to help them survive. If you pull back the plastic mulch and rebuild the irrigation system to allow the whole root zone of the trees to get water, they will possibly survive.
The trees that have died should be replaced with other tree species. I have included a list of suitable trees for you to choose from.
Thank you for letting me help you with this project. If you have any further questions, please to not hesitate to call or email me at the contact information below.
Sincerely yours
Jim Hubbell
Registered Consulting Arborist #603
3136 South 2000 West
Logan, Utah 84321
435-754-4674
jim@workingwithnature.us
Contents
Background
Assignment
Limitations
Photographs
Site Map
List of suitable tree species for this area
Steps for Planting
Summary
Lyndsey Tremuloides contacted me about her hybrid poplars that are not doing well. She wants me to diagnose the problem, and provide some recommendations her landscaping company can follow to help the trees recover. Her budget did not allow travel to her somewhat remote location so I agreed to work solely via email and photos. Lyndsey provided about 15 photos, not all of which were needed for this report. After studying the photos, I sent her a list of questions in an effort to understand the conditions the trees are living in. From what I saw in the photos and the answers to the questions, I conclude the trees are suffering from poor planting practices and unhealthy root conditions. I recommend removing the plastic cover, rebuilding the irrigation system and selecting new trees to replace the dead one. I also provided planting instructions to help the new trees survive.
Assignment (and limitations)
Background
Lyndsey Tremuloides contacted me about her trees that are dying. Her property is located in the high desert town of Pudding Creek, Utah at an elevation of about 6065 feet. Summers are warm and dry; average daily high temperature is about 85 degrees. Winters are typically cold and dry, with an average daily low around 10 degrees. Total precipitation for the year is about 15 inches of water, received mostly as snow or summer thunderstorms. She has about a dozen hybrid poplars (Populus deltoides x Populus nigra) lining her driveway. Some of the trees are showing signs of distress, while others appear to be doing well.
Assignment
Lyndsey desires me to diagnose the problem with the sickly looking trees and provide recommendations to restore them to good health. The diagnosis and recommendations should be delivered in the form of a report she can use to direct the work of her lawn care company.
Limitations
Due to her desire to save costs related to traveling to her remote location, I agreed to diagnose the tree problems using only photos of the affected trees and the general area, as well as answers that she would provide for any questions I had.
Purpose and use of this report
This report is for the use of Lyndsey Tremuloides as she works to repair the damage to her trees and to guide the actions of any landscaping company she may employ.
Observations
Ms. Tremulodies sent several photos of the affected trees (see Appendix A). After studying the photos, I asked her the following questions; her answers are below each one.
Were the trees planted all at once? Yes, they were all planted at the same time, about eight years ago.
Could you describe the location of the trees having the most problems? Next to the driveway/fence? Or in the center rows? The trees having problems are right next to the driveway.
When was the gravel driveway and plastic fencing completed? The driveway and fence was probably completed a year after the trees were planted.
Did you put down any chemicals to kill the weeds or keep them from growing on the driveway or planting site? No, we just spot treat weeds in the driveway with round-up.
How deep were they planted? They were planted 2-2 1/2 feet deep.
Were they ball and burlap, potted or bare root? They were potted. Probably about 4 feet tall, and pretty small.
When planted, was there anything done to loosen the roots? The roots were loosened.
Were any soil amendments added when the trees were planted? The nursery we bought them at gave us fertilizer sticks that we used.
What is your water quality? Our water quality is excellent.
I can see the emitters next to the trunks, are there other emitters away from the trunk?The only water is next to the trunk.
Is that plastic under the gravel? Yes, there is plastic under the gravel.
Analysis and Testing
The only tools used for this project are email and digital photos supplied by the client.
Discussion
Trees fail to thrive for one or more of the following three reasons:
- Insects
- Disease
- Environmental conditions, sometimes known as “abiotic.”
Insects or diseases tend to attack one tree at a time. One tree will show symptoms and decline, then, depending on the nature of the insect or disease, another tree will be attacked and so on. In this case several trees, all in the same area, are affected, without any obvious signs of insects or disease.
Since the affected trees are all next to the driveway, I asked about construction because laying down paving or other construction activities can affect the roots of the trees. Herbicides are sometimes used to prevent weeds and sometimes these herbicides can migrate into nearby tree rooting areas. However, in this case, the owner states no such herbicides were used.
The way a tree is planted has a large effect on the ability of the tree to survive and grow. Planting too deep can deprive the roots of the tree the oxygen they need for cell activity. In addition, the bark tissue of the trunk is not suited for constant exposure to soil moisture. Typically, trees “about 4 feet tall”, should be planted just several inches deep, certainly not 2 feet or more. All these trees were planted the same way at the same time.
Besides proper planting depth, hybrid poplars need soil that is moist but not wet throughout the rooting volume (note: words in bold are defined in the Glossary). Some areas in western Utah have water that is not ideal for growing plants or trees. The owner states her water is excellent, so this is not a concern here. However, these trees are all watered with drip emitters placed next to the trunk. The plastic under the gravel mulch prohibits oxygen getting to the roots as well. These two conditions do not allow healthy root development and can lead to root rots.
Potted trees can have circling roots or other problems. Loosening the soil before planting is one way to hopefully prevent some of those problems. Modern planting guidelines suggest (treesaregood.com, no date) that no soil amendments be added at planting time; the tree should only be planted in the native soil it will grow in. Fertilizer is also not recommended as it can force the tree to grow too fast above ground before the roots can get established. Fertilizer spikes are relatively small and do not contribute much to the growing environment.
Hybrid poplars are noted for fast growth and a short lifetime (arborday.com, no date). All the trees shown in the photos, even the healthy ones, are no taller than 20 feet. I estimate the sickly trees are about 12-15 feet tall. If these trees were growing in more optimum conditions, we could expect them to be close to 40 feet tall after 8 years.
Conclusions
Because several trees are affected, all at the same time, I do not think this is either an insect or a disease problem. There are no signs in the photos of insect or diseases. Several trees, all in the same area, are showing the same symptoms of failure to thrive. This suggests an environmental condition. The combination of drip emitters next to the trunk and the plastic covering the entire area that does not allow oxygen into the soil lead me to conclude the problem is likely poor root health.
Recommendations
I recommend the following actions:
- Remove the plastic from the whole area to allow the soil to be exposed to the air.
- Rebuild the drip irrigation system to water the entire root zone of all the trees.
- Consider selecting new tree species to replace the hybrid poplars. A list of suitable trees for this area is found in Appendix B. Proper planting instructions are included following the list of trees.
Glossary
trunk flare The trunk flare is where the trunk expands at the base of the tree.
Bibliography
Arborday.com, no date, accessed July 12, 2016
treesaregood.com, no date, accessed July 12, 2016
treeutah.org, no date, accessed July 12, 2016
Appendix A
Photographs
Photo 1
This photo shows the trees next to the driveway. The tree in the center is somewhat defoliated.
Photo 2
The tree in the foreground is showing classic signs of water stress. The larger branches are dead while a new flush of growth is starting low down on the trunk
Photo 3
This photo shows one of the trees planted too deep, the irrigation emitter next to the trunk and some of the plastic ground cover showing through the gravel.
Photo 4
Another tree struggling to survive. The flush of growth low on the trunk, with dead, leafless branches above is a classic sign of not getting enough water.
Site Map
This photo, taken from Google Earth, shows the property with the trees lining the driveway. It clearly shows four trees either declining or dead.
Appendix B
List of suitable tree species for this area.
Recommended Trees (Underutilized species that should be planted more) ∗
– Kentucky Coffeetree (Gymnocladus diocius)
– Bur Oak (Quercus macrocarpa)
– Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba)
– Japanese Pagodatree (Sophora japonica)
– Common Hackberry (Celtis occidentalis)
– Japanese Zelkova (Zelkova serrata)
– Golden Raintree (Koelreutria paniculata)
– Lacebark Elm (Ulmus parifolia)
– Incense-cedar (Calocedrus decurrens)
Tough, yet desirable trees ∗
– Crabapples (Malus spp.)
– Hawthorns (Crataegus spp.)
– Junipers (Juniperus spp.)
Somewhat over-planted species (These should be planted in companion with the above) ∗
– Honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos)
– Ornamental Pear (Pyrus calleryana, and others)
– Austrian Pine (Pinus nigra)
– Norway Maple (Acer platanoides)
– Green Ash (Fraxinus pennsylvanica)
– Littleleaf Linden (Tilia cordata)
– Flowering Cherry (Prunus serrulata, and others)
– London Planetree (Platanus x acerifolia)
Other Trees to Consider ∗∗
• European Larch (Larix decidua)
• Lacebark Pine (Pinus bungeana)
• Baldcypress (Taxodium distichum)
• Paperbark Maple (Acer griseum)
• Fringetree • White Fringetree (Chionanthus virginicus)
• Chitalpa (Chitalpa × tashkentensis)
• Yellowwood (Cladrastis kentuckea; formerly C. lutea)
• Corneliancherry Dogwood (Cornus mas)
• Turkish Filbert • Turkish Hazel (Corylus colurna)
• Yellow-poplar • Tulip tree • Tulip-poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera)
• Bur Oak • Mossycup Oak (Quercus macrocarpa)
• Japanese Tree Lilac (Syringa reticulata)
∗ Scott Zeidler, Wasatch Front Community Forester, Utah Division of Forestry, Fire, and State Lands. “Trees for Municipal Plantings Along the Wasatch Front.”
∗∗ by Heidi Kratsch, Extension Horticulture Specialist, and Michael Kuhns, Extension Forestry Specialist, Utah State University. “16 Less Common Trees for Utah Landscapes: Diversifying Utah’s Community Forests,” August 2006
Steps for Planting
These instructions are found on the Planting a Tree page in the Tree Owner Information section of the Trees Are Good website.
- Locate all underground utilities prior to digging.
- Identify the trunk flare. The trunk flare is where the trunk expands at the base of the tree. This point should be partially visible after the tree has been planted.
- Dig a shallow, broad planting hole. Holes should be 2-3 times wider than the root ball, but only as deep as the root ball.
- Remove the containers or cut away the wire basket. Inspect container tree root balls for circling roots. Straighten, cut, or remove them.
- Place the tree at the proper height. Take care to dig the hole to the proper depth – and no more. If the tree is planted too deep, new roots will have difficulty developing because of a lack of oxygen.
- Straighten the tree in the hole. Before backfilling, have someone view the tree from several directions to confirm it is straight.
- Fill the hole gently, but firmly. Pack soil around the base of the root ball to stabilize it. Fill the remainder of the hole, firmly packing the soil to eliminate air pockets that may dry out roots. Further reduce air pockets by watering periodically while backfilling. Avoid fertilization at the time of planting.
- Stake the tree, if necessary. Studies have shown that trees establish more quickly and develop stronger trunk and root systems if they are not staked at the time of planting.
- Mulch the base of the tree. Mulch is organic matter spread around the base of a tree to hold moisture, moderate soil temperature extremes, and reduce grass and weed competition. Do not leave mulch against the trunk of the however as this can lead to fungal infections of the trunk.
- Provide follow-up care. Keep the soil moist, but not water-logged. Water trees at least once a week, barring rain, and more frequently during hot, windy weather.
Lab Results
We have no lab results or analysis as this report is done completely by email and digital photos.
Arborist Disclosure
Arborists are tree specialists who use their education, knowledge, training and experience to examine trees, recommend measures to enhance the beauty and health of trees, and attempt to reduce the risk of living near trees. Clients may choose to accept or disregard the recommendations of the arborist, or to seek additional advice. Arborists cannot detect every condition that could possibly lead to the structural failure of a tree. Trees are living organisms that fail in ways we do not fully understand. Conditions are often hidden within trees and below ground. Arborists cannot guarantee that a tree will be healthy or safe under all circumstances, or for a specified period of time. Likewise, remedial treatments, like any medicine, cannot be guaranteed. Treatment, pruning, and removal of trees may involve considerations beyond the scope of the arborist’s services such as property boundaries, property ownership, site lines, disputes between neighbors, and other issues. Arborists cannot take such considerations into account unless complete and accurate information is disclosed to the arborist. An arborist should then be expected to reasonably rely upon the completeness and accuracy of the information provided. Trees can be managed, but they cannot be controlled. To live near trees is to accept some degree of risk. The only way to eliminate all risk associated with trees is to eliminate all trees.
I, ___________________________________, acknowledge that I have received a copy of this document and that I have read and understand this disclosure statement.
Signed:___________________________________, Date:
Assumptions and Limiting Conditions
- Any legal description provided to the consultant is assumed to be correct. Any titles and ownerships to any property are assumed to be good and marketable.
- Care has been taken to obtain all information from reliable sources. All data has been verified insofar as possible for the accuracy of information provided by others.
- The consultant shall not be required to give testimony or attend court by reason of this report unless subsequent contractual arrangements are made, including payment of an additional fee for such services as described in the fee schedule and contract of engagement.
- Loss or alteration of any part of this report invalidates the entire report.
- Possession of this report or a copy thereof does not imply right of publication or use for any purpose by any other than the person to whom it is addressed, without the prior expressed written consent of the consultant.
- This report and values expressed herein represent the opinion of the consultant and the consultant’s fee is in no way contingent upon the reporting of a specified value, a stipulated result, the occurrence of a subsequent event, nor upon any finding to be reported.
- Sketches, diagrams, graphs, and photographs in this report, being intended as visual aids, are not necessarily to scale and should not be construed as engineering or architectural reports or surveys.
- Unless expressed otherwise: a) information contained in this report covers only those items that were examined and reflects the condition of those items at the time of inspection; and b) the inspection is limited to visual examination of accessible items without dissection, excavation, probing, or coring. There is no warranty or guarantee, expressed or implied, that problems or deficiencies of the trees or property in question may not arise in the future.
Certificate of Performance
I, Jim Hubbell, certify:
That I have personally inspected the photos referred to in this report, and have stated my findings accurately. The extent of the evaluation is stated in the attached report and Limitations of Assignment;
That I have no current or prospective interest in the vegetation or the property that is the subject of this report, and I have no personal interest or with respect to the parties involved;
That the analysis, opinions and conclusions stated herein are my own, and are based on current scientific procedures and facts;
That my compensation is not contingent upon the reporting of a predetermined conclusion that favors the cause of the client or any other party, nor upon the results of the assessment, the attainment of stipulated results, or the occurrence of any subsequent events;
That my analysis, opinions and conclusions were developed and this report has been prepared according to commonly accepted arboricultural practices;
That no one provided significant professional assistance to the consultant, except as indicated within the report.
I further certify that I am an International Society of Arboriculture Certified Arborist and a Registered Consulting Arborist of the American Society of Consulting Arborists.